| When
you were a child, your mother probably told you not to play with your food. You
weren't supposed to make snowballs out of your mashed potatoes or bore fingerholes
in your jell-o. But did your mother ever tell you not to rub, mash and wrap your
food around your body? Probably not, because those were the days before food treatments
at some of the country's premier and priciest spas. When
you think about it, it makes perfect sense, both for health and marketing. If
an edible is high in vitamin C or is useful for combating inflammation, why not
use it inside and out? As for marketing, the food novelty is a spa owner's dream-come-true:
if you rub it on, they will come. 
The
undisputed Grande Dame of comestible skin treatments is the new spa at the Hotel
Hershey in Pennsylvania. The spa therapists wax eloquent about the antioxidant
properties of chocolate, which may well be true, but the real appeal is that there
is now a way to indulge in the dark, creamy forbidden pleasure without gaining
an ounce. The
most affordable and popular of the treatments is the Whipped Cocoa Bath ($45).
You get lowered into a tub full of the stuff you love to drink. The actual ingredients
include powdered milk and 1/8 of a cup of cocoa; not enough to make you break
out, but enough to give you the aroma and the luxurious feeling. For the slightly
more adventurous, after the bath there is a cocoa bean polish ($55). Your body
is coated with nutty brownie mix-or something that feels like it. What's in the
gritty mixture? Walnut shell powder, cocoa bean husks and coconut oil, which gives
it a creamy texture. If
you still haven't had enough, there's a 60- minute Chocolate Fondue Wrap ($90).
A spa therapist will pull out a large brush, and paint you, forehead to toes,
with a thick mixture of moor mud and cocoa. You will look like a biscotti. You
will feel like a biscotti. And then you will be wrapped in layers of plastic and
towels to allow you to relax in chocolate heaven. You will probably fall asleep
and then, when the therapist uses a Vichy shower to clean off the brown stuff,
it will be the end of life as a gourmet bakery item. And
there is more. In the Circular Dining Room, the butter you slather on your rolls
is made with chocolate. Everywhere you look, there are kisses and little squares
of crunchy chocolate. If you still haven't had enough, you can buy it, ship it,
send it, and take home the body products that are made with it. But
does it work? Who knows. Your skin will feel softer, you will be more relaxed
than before you saw a spa therapist, and you will be able to talk about your experience
for months to come. If you come as a couple, chocolate indulgence may make you
feel more amorous. Some even claim it is an aphrodisiac. So the benefits are probably
emotional and psychological as well as physical. 
A
few hours from Hershey is the Nemacolin Woodlands Resort and Spa (1-800-422-2736),
which is a Pennsylvania hideout for the very wealthy and the very corporate. There
is a private air strip where both the current and past Presidents landed and every
amenity you can think of from golf courses to corridors dripping with art to a
soda parlor for the kids. For the health-prone, there is a body treatment that
uses the aquatic food many people buy at local health food stores: seaweed ($145
dollars for 80 minutes). It is supposed to be the best detoxifying agent around. Your
therapist will first do a dry brushing of your skin and then you'll get a very
gentle lymphatic massage. Next, you will be swathed in warm, moist, vaguely slimy
seaweed. Then you are wrapped in warm blankets, heat is applied and you will most
likely conk out. When you come to, if you care, your spa therapist may tell you
that you have been treated with red and brown algae, which remove lactic acid.
What really matters is that you will be really relaxed. As an added algae benefit,
as with chocolate, your skin will be baby-butt soft, and you can trail the soothing
feeling with you for days. Leaving
behind pastoral Pennsylvania, your search for food dousing will probably lead
you to California wine country, where the MacArthur Place spa offers treatments
in-what else?-wine grapes. The
MacArthur Place hotel is one of Sonoma's historic country inns. The grounds are
a riot of flowers and the spa is next to a pool where California sybarites lounge,
relax, and try to turn off their cell phones. Inside,
the spa, there are a host of grape treatments on the menu. First, there is a hot
grape essence bath. There is a vague aroma of vines as you are lowered into the
water. Your therapist will set a bunchy of grapes next to the tub before she withdraws
from the room. In the semi-darkness, you will undoubtedly notice that the shower
head across from you is in the shape of a sunflower. Around the tub, are lovely,
large plastic ducks. You are in beautiful bucolic wine country, indoors. Next,
you will probably want to indulge in a crushed grape seed wrap. A spa therapist
will rub you in somewhat grainy grape seed, and soon you will be covered in a
purplish-gray paste. Then you will be massaged from the feet up with grape oil.
Although you will want to space out and mindlessly enjoy the wrapping experience
that follows, you may ask your spa therapist what the grape seeds will do for
you. As you nod off, you will hear the words "antioxidants" and "untreated
grapes" floating in the air above your head. And then, soporific bliss. When
you wake up, you will be lightly doused in a peppermint scent (all the treatments
can be had in the Red Red Wine Package for $194). After
you are graped in Sonoma, you may want to head south to Austin, where the Lake
Austin Spa and Resort offers treatments in wine and honey (another divine wrap
experience) or corn silk. The very words conjure up wispy, soft images, and the
treatment is just that. A therapist will exfoliate you, and then slather a mixture
of oatmeal and corn husks on your body. As you drift of into dreamland, you will
wake up every now and again as your body is massaged and de-knotted from the tensions
of life. When the treatment is over, you will be as perky as a fresh ear of corn
(treatment including massage, $195). Now
that the outside of your body has been fed, the inside won't be far behind. The
spa restaurant menu boasts calorie and fat counts, but, most important, it is
gourmet dining and everything tastes great. After meals, you can go kayaking on
a private stretch of the Colorado River, meditate in a hammock, or participate
in Pilates, NIA and exercise ball classes. So if you feel wonderful when you go
home, who knows if it's the food on your body or the pampering of your body, mind
and soul. Of
all the foodie spa treatments, surely the most unusual is a short flight away
in Dallas, at the luxurious spa at the Crescent hotel. You can opt for the Javanese
Lulur, which was originally given to brides for forty consecutive days prior to
their weddings ($225 for almost two hours). After a massage with jasmine oil,
the body is scrubbed in an aromatic mixture of turmeric, rice powder, jasmine,
frangipane and cool yoghurt. Then you are bathed, served ginger tea and moisturized.
It is one of many lovely treatments, but it is not the piece de resistance. That
distinction is reserved for-are you ready?-a treatment in barbecue sauce. It is
the only place in the world where you can get the treatment. And if you are a
chili addict like I am, this is the ultimate rush. At
a recent visit to the Crescent Spa, I was assigned a therapist named César.
Once he had ceremoniously laid out on the massage table, he gently sheathed my
body in a mixture of cabernet wine and water. Then, with a fairly vigorous hand,
he applied a pineapple scrub. He rubbed me with the mixture of crushed peppercorns
and pineapple. Soon, he pronounced me ready for the warm up. In a beautiful little
bowl he mixed body barbecue sauce for me: tomato paste, honey, lemon juice, cayenne
pepper and paprika. Then he applied it to my body, wrapped me in cellophane and
blankets and left me to relax. At
first, I felt pampered and relaxed and nothing else. You see, it's a creeper.
After about ten minutes, I understood exactly how a baby back rib feels. I started
to heat up. My back began to tingle. Then I began to burn. It was sexy, exotic,
exciting. I mean, I was HOT! Then
César cooled me down with a margarita lime lotion. The body meal was over.
So what will
it be for you: chocolate, algae, grapes, corn silk or barbecue? With the success
of these culinary body indulgences, other foods will certainly follow. Honeydew
melon, perhaps? Or, can lobster bisque be far behind?
IF YOU GO:
Hotel
Hershey in Pennsylvania, 400 Hotel Road, Hershey, Pa 17033. 717-520-5888.
The MacArthur Place hotel, 707-938-2929 or www.macarthurplace.com
Lake Austin Spa and
Resort, 1-800-847-5637 or www.lakeaustin.com
Crescent Hotel, 214-871-3232.
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